The Tribes Part IV: The Dandy
Fashion week ushers in the Season of the Dandy – a tribe known for meticulous detail, unparalled taste and fashionable interest. Gentlemen, prepare to be outstyled.
There’s always that one bloke in life that makes style look easy. Whether it was that Lynx-ridden Fred Perry patriarch of high school, the universally-loved uni halls dweller from some unknown (yet achingly cool) London locale or, even in your adult life, the immaculately-dressed colleague that treats every day in the office like a Savile Row stroll. And, to top it all off, they make it look so easy – and they’re so bloody charming with it. Sigh, frustration, despair – enter the Dandy tribesman, an aspirational individual that is always one step ahead.
But we cannot hate the Dandy for this. He teaches us that men too must take care of their appearance and there’s nothing unmanly about the art of presentation; David Gandy, Johannes Huebl and even Emperor Beckham (minus that weird early 00s sarong and leather biker thing – lest we forget) have commanded the respect of their peers by fusing old school manners with modern day sensibility. Believe it or not, you can sport a quiff, champion a 3-piece suit, trim your beard and still not be considered an arrogant swine: the Dandy is more often than not a lovely chap.
It’s a simple formula, my friend. Manners-a-plenty + classic style + a dash of self-TLC = a Dandy, and a traditional timepiece often comes part and parcel. The ultimate finishing touch, our dapper tribesmen prefer the heritage brands that convey both respect and style. Be it au Francais finesse from Hermes or international prestige from IWC, the Dandy always dons a watch that holds fashionable merit.
Secretly, everybody wants to channel a subtle Dandy twist and if you fall into this category (jealous), you’re a brilliant man and thus deserve a brilliant watch.
As a signature piece of IWC’s esteemed collection, the Portuguese represents everything the Dandy wants to be: timelessly effortless. Basically the antithesis to the Grandstander.
Key Features: Arabic numerals, chronograph function, quarter-second scale for precision timing, blue alligator leather strap.
Dandy Qualification: Masculine but not overtly so, the Portuguese can be teamed in full tailored finery just as well as a simple shirt and jeans.
Luxury that doesn’t cost the world is difficult to find, yet the Longines Heritage hits both the premium and accessible mark. Traditional design, brown leather strap and a flash of rose gold: the Dandy is pretty much salivating.
Key Features: 38.5mm, 18 carat rose gold case, automatic movement, sapphire crystal glass, 30m water resistance.
Dandy Qualification: It’s stylish, it’s simple, it doesn’t go overboard. Essentially the Dandy in wristwatch format.
Auf Deutsch design is known for unrivalled efficiency and excellent simplicity, and the Junghans Meister is no exception. Consider it a BMW for the wrist (just much less of a dent on the finances).
Key Features: German made, self-winding movement calibre J880.1, stop function, date, day, plexiglass with Sicralan coating, 30m water resistance.
Dandy Qualification: The utmost versatilty lets the Dandy pair his Junghans with almost any ensemble; from business to boardroom to bar.
High fashion and haute horlogerie are often seen as two different spheres yet the Hermes Arceau seamlessly blends both. Just imagine a Swiss watchmaker being wined, dined and intoxicated by the fashion week front row set and you’re almost there.
Key Features: 43mm diameter, folding clasp, chronograph function, Arabic numerals, luxury leather strap, date aperture.
Dandy Qualification: Excellent craftsmanship with a luxury fashion shell – any watch of this ilk is considered gold.
If in doubt, keep things classic. The Montblanc Meisterstuck strikes a perfect chord between statement, subtlety and excellent craftsmanship.
Key Features: Swiss made, 41mm, stainless steel case, brown alligator leather strap, automatic movement, scratch resistant sapphire crystal glass, 30m water resistance.
Dandy Qualification: Montblanc holds sway with the tribe thanks to their maison approach to manufacturing – an ardent Dandy will own not only a Montblanc watch, but a leather briefcase, writing tool and everything in between.
Maurice Lacroix present the top levels of Swiss finery in an accessible design and the Eliros appeals to the more budget-conscious Dandy. Indeed, a metallic glint makes this one for the magpies.
Key Features: Swiss made, 40mm, stainless steel case, quartz movement, scratch resistant sapphire crystal glass, 50m water resistance.
Dandy Qualification: Craftsmanship, style and affordability in one package – it’s a foolproof formula.